Vinodyssée
Exploring wine adaptation in Latin America
Summary of the episodes:
Project
Wine is made on every continent but each bottle tells a story of its own.
It grows from a specific soil, under distinct climate conditions, shaped by human hands and local tastes.Winemaking takes time and it carries centuries of history.
But today, it faces new and urgent challenges: sudden weather shifts, heat, drought, and uncertainty.Each vineyard, each winemaker, must find their own way to adapt.In Latin America, where landscapes are vast and climates extreme, we set out to meet those who make wine every day and explore how they keep this ancient tradition alive in a changing world.Along the way, we explore:
- How extreme climates inspire both traditional and innovative practices.
- The revival of ancient grape varieties and alternative winemaking methods.
- The surprising ways climate change influences taste and food pairings.
- The role of regulation or the freedom that comes with its absence.
- How local ecosystems and communities are organizing to address climate risks.Most importantly, we want to meet these winemakers, give them a voice, and share their stories through a podcast that connects their vineyards with wine lovers and curious minds around the world.
Who we are
Over the years, we’ve explored wine not as industry insiders, but as two French explorers eager to learn, share, and connect around wine and climate change :
Inspired by how Georgian winemakers collaborate for export, we set out to explore wine in other cultural and geographic contexts.
Our passion for wine has also led us to create and take part in wine clubs and tastings, and to regularly attend wine events such as independent winemakers’ gatherings.
Professionally, we have worked on climate and adaptation topics, which adds another dimension to our perspective.
Follow the journey
Follow our journey and discover new stories from the vineyards of Latin America:
📸 - Instagram - behind the scenes, photos, and moments from the road.
🎧 - Podcast on Spotify (in French) - interviews with winemakers and stories about wine & climate.
Also available on Apple Podcast.
Want to ask us some questions, share your perspective, collaborate, or just say hi?📩 Write to us at [email protected]
Summary of Episode 1:
Water and the vine in Latin America: understanding drought
In this first episode, VinOdyssée focuses on a major challenge mentioned by all the winegrowers we met in Argentina and Chile: water. In a context of climate disruption, this issue is also arising in Latin America, where the vine has nonetheless been established for nearly five centuries.To understand this challenge, it is first necessary to look back at the climatic specificities of the region. The Andes mountain range, the longest continental mountain chain in the world, stretches across seven countries and profoundly shapes local climates. With an average altitude of 4,000 meters and peaks exceeding 6,900 meters, it constitutes an essential water reserve thanks to its glaciers and snow.In the northern and central regions of Chile and Argentina, which concentrate the majority of wine production, rainfall is very low. Some desert areas such as San Pedro de Atacama receive between 0 and 50 mm of rain per year, while other regions such as Cafayate or Mendoza range between 150 and 250 mm annually. Despite occasional episodes of rainfall, particularly in summer in certain Argentine valleys, the climate remains overall arid.
This climatic difference between the two sides of the Andes is notably explained by the rain shadow effect: weather systems coming from the Pacific bring rain to Chile but are blocked by the mountain range and do not reach Argentina. As a result, regions located at similar latitudes, such as Santiago and Mendoza, display different climates.Under these conditions, viticulture largely depends on irrigation. But this dependence is not new. Long before the arrival of the vine, Indigenous peoples developed sophisticated systems to capture and distribute water in these challenging environments.Lucas Niven, a winegrower in Mendoza, reflects on this heritage:
“In Mendoza’s irrigation system, there were Indigenous people known as the Huarpes.
The Indigenous inhabitants were the Huarpes, who practiced agriculture near the rivers.
When the Inca Empire reached Mendoza, it was the southernmost point of their expansion.
They stayed in Mendoza for 70 years and helped the Huarpes improve their irrigation system.”In the Calchaquí Valleys as well as in the Cuyo region, different peoples—particularly the Diaguitas, the Quilmes, and the Huarpes—developed irrigation networks based on gravity. Water, sourced from rivers or from the melting of Andean snow, was conveyed through earthen or քար channels, requiring precise control of slopes, flow rates, and distribution between plots.From the 15th century onward, the Incas came to refine this work by improving existing canals and reducing losses. These infrastructures still form the foundation of the irrigation systems used today in wine-growing regions.
The vine appeared in these landscapes much later. It was during the colonial period, in the 16th and 17th centuries, that the Spanish introduced the first Vitis vinifera vines, mainly to meet the needs of religious worship and to produce sacramental wine.In Argentina, tradition attributes this introduction to the priest Juan Cedrón, who came to evangelize the region of Santiago del Estero in the northwest of the country. After crossing the Andes, he is said to have brought several varieties with him, including Muscat of Alexandria and Criolla Chica. The first plantings thus developed in the Northwest, around Tucumán, before spreading to the Cuyo region, particularly Mendoza and San Juan, in territories where local populations were undergoing evangelization.Over time, Mendoza established itself as a strategic crossroads. Its geographical position made it a key passage point between the Argentine coast and Chile, linking Buenos Aires to Santiago. The arrival of Italian and French immigrants helped modernize viticulture, while the construction of the railway in the 19th century opened the region on a broader scale. In this context, combined with the already existing irrigation systems, the vineyard experienced significant growth despite the arid climate.For a long time, vineyards in Mendoza and other regions of Latin America were irrigated by flooding, by opening canals or diverting watercourses. While other, less water-intensive techniques have since emerged, they will be discussed in the next episode.
Climate change is therefore intensifying an already strong constraint: water scarcity. In regions where rainfall is naturally low, its decline or increasing irregularity is weakening existing systems. In Chile, a report by the Center for Climate and Resilience Research refers to a “mega-drought,” with a drop in rainfall of around 30% between 2010 and 2019.
In this context, irrigation largely relies on water from Andean glaciers. However, in the long term, their retreat could lead to a lasting reduction in available resources, posing a direct risk to the vine.The decrease in water availability leads to what is known as water stress. When the plant does not have enough water to meet its needs, its development slows down. The very functioning of the vine is affected. Photosynthesis, which allows the plant to produce energy from light, carbon dioxide, and water, is disrupted.This process relies in particular on the stomata, small pores located on the leaves, whose opening leads to water loss. Under water stress conditions, the plant closes its stomata to limit this loss. As a result, photosynthesis decreases, glucose production slows down, and the vine begins to draw on its reserves, which can weaken it over time in the case of repeated drought.The effects do not stop there. The growth of the vine is put on hold, particularly that of the shoots. The grapes can also be affected if the lack of water occurs before ripening: the berries remain smaller and yields decrease.Beyond quantity, it is also the quality of the wine that evolves. Sugars become more concentrated, acidity decreases, resulting in wines that are potentially rounder but less fresh. Phenolic compounds are also affected: anthocyanins, responsible for the color of red wines, are stimulated, while certain vegetal or peppery aromas diminish. In cases of significant water stress, cooked fruit aromas may appear.
Added to these effects are heatwaves and rising temperatures, often associated with water scarcity. All of these factors make wine production more uncertain in these regions.In this context of climate change, the question of water use becomes central. Between agriculture, industry, and other needs, trade-offs are increasing. In Mendoza, where the resource is already under pressure, protests have emerged against mining projects, driven by fears of excessive water consumption and potential contamination that could affect society as a whole.After outlining this situation, winegrowers are organizing to adapt to these new constraints, with approaches that may differ depending on the context. Between improving irrigation and questioning its use, solutions are multiple and sometimes opposing. A topic we will explore further in the next episode.
Summary of Episode 2:
Water and the vine in Latin America: adapting to drought
Following on from the first episode, the question becomes concrete: how can wine continue to be produced as water becomes increasingly scarce? On the ground, in Argentina and Chile, irrigation appears to be the primary response.Today, it concerns almost the entire Argentine vineyard and a large majority of the Chilean vineyard. Historically practiced through flood irrigation, this method consists of diverting river water to submerge the plots. While it allows for deep soil moisture and encourages root development, it raises questions in a context of resource scarcity.
In Argentina, this system is made possible by long-standing water rights linked to land ownership. Water, a public good, is managed locally but can be accessed through wells, groundwater, or rivers, according to historical rules that are still in force.In response to these limitations, new practices are emerging, more precise and more water-efficient. Drip irrigation is expanding, making it possible to finely adjust water inputs according to the vine’s needs.
This approach relies on careful soil observation and the use of sensors, allowing water inputs to be adjusted weekly based on evapotranspiration.
On one of the estates visited, the presence of a lake raises questions in a region marked by water scarcity.Irma, from Bodega Bousquet in the Uco Valley, explains:
“Well, there is the issue of evaporation, but at the same time there is the issue of energy consumption for extracting water from the well. (…) And often the extraction from the well does not match the pumping rate of the pump that sends the water to irrigation.”Well pumps, which are highly energy-intensive, do not operate at the same pace as drip irrigation systems. It is therefore necessary to store water upstream before redistributing it, which inevitably leads to some level of evaporation.
Beyond water management alone, some estates are exploring more integrated models, where irrigation and energy are considered together.
In the province of Salta, in northern Argentina, in the heart of the Calchaquí Valleys, we meet Jorgue, oenologist for the Colomé group. In this high-altitude landscape, accompanied by birdsong and the passing of hummingbirds, he presents a distinctive organization made possible by the vastness of the estate.Jorgue, oenologist – Bodega Colomé
“Well, Colomé is a 38,000-hectare estate, which means that the river originates within the property, and the water from this source, from this river, can be used.
This river, which supplies water for irrigation, is first used to power a turbine that generates electricity.
And through this electricity generation, which runs part of the winery, the water is then, taking advantage of elevation differences, fed into a drip irrigation system without the need for pumps.”
Here, the river that runs through the property becomes a multifunctional resource. It is first used to generate electricity through a turbine, before being used to irrigate the vines. By taking advantage of the natural elevation differences of the terrain, the water then flows by gravity through a drip irrigation system, without the need for pumps.
This model, which combines energy production and irrigation, illustrates a form of resource optimization where each use is designed in continuity. In several estates, this logic goes even further, with systems that recycle water used in the winery and then reinject it into the vineyards.While these irrigation practices are relatively widespread in Latin America, their development in Europe remains more limited.
In France, some southern regions are beginning to experiment with these solutions, but the regulatory framework remains stricter, particularly within controlled designation of origin systems. Irrigation is also less culturally and historically rooted there.
Unlike Argentina or Chile, where irrigation systems inherited from pre-Columbian civilizations have shaped agricultural practices, France has not developed the same relationship with water in viticulture.
However, faced with intensifying droughts, the issue is becoming increasingly pressing. It also raises broader societal questions: between agriculture and other uses, how should access to a resource that is becoming scarcer be allocated? Especially considering that wine remains a non-essential consumer product.From this perspective, certain solutions are emerging to limit water withdrawals. In France, for example, INRAE is experimenting with the reuse of treated wastewater for vineyard irrigation, particularly in the south of the country.But despite these innovations, not all winegrowers choose irrigation.
In Chile, some producers do without it entirely, whether due to economic constraints or by choice. In a country where water has been considered private property since the reforms implemented under Pinochet’s dictatorship, access to this resource depends directly on the ability to acquire usage rights.
These rights can be bought, sold, or leased, creating significant inequalities between farms.
In the Maule region, in the center of the country, large wine groups coexist with small family producers. It is here that we meet Ernesto Soto, a winegrower cultivating a few hectares passed down from generation to generation.Ernesto Soto, winegrower – Maule region
“We try, but the water isn’t enough—there’s no water.
— There’s no water?
— Yes, there is, but very little.
— Is it only with rainfall?
— Well, the rain is what works the vineyard, we plough, we break up the soil, and the earth becomes different here…”Here, there is no irrigation. The work relies entirely on rainfall and on careful soil management. Ernesto ploughs his plots twice a year. Under these conditions, the vine adapts. It develops a deeper root system, capable of reaching water further underground. While yields may be lower in the short term, this approach helps strengthen the vines’ resilience to drought.A few hundred kilometers away, in Chile, another voice adds to the debate.
José Ignacio, from Maturana Wines, works differently: he does not cultivate all his vines directly but buys grapes from committed growers across several regions. One thing unites them: none of these vineyards are irrigated.
Sitting next to a waterfall running through his property, he shares with us an almost pedagogical vision of the vine and its capacity to adapt.José Ignacio – Maturana Wines
“We have an advantage. The vine itself is a very resilient plant.
It’s like a child. When you get a child used to eating sweets or candy every day, if one day you don’t give them any, they’ll complain, right?
But if over time you get them used to it and gradually restrict that, then clearly the plant will adapt.”For him, getting the vine used to overly regular water inputs ultimately weakens its resilience. Like a child accustomed to sugar, the plant becomes dependent on this comfort and loses its ability to adapt.
His reflection goes even further, clearly highlighting the trade-offs that lie ahead for wine-growing regions.José Ignacio – Maturana Wines
“I believe we need to change the conditions.
You have two options: either you move south, closer to the coast, or you go to higher altitudes.
Are you looking for freshness?
In the rest of the central zone, what happens? You’ll have to adapt the plant to a new system of nourishment, that is, water.
And with that, you will reduce yields.
So that productivity, if you are looking for something highly productive : this is not the place. If you are looking for quality, it is the place, and you will achieve it.”Here, the trade-off is clear: produce less, but better. In regions where water is becoming scarce, lower yields are turning into a strategy, if not a requirement, to maintain quality.On the ground, this difference in approach is sometimes visible to the naked eye.
In the Maule region, Ernesto Soto takes us through his plots. On one side, a vineyard cultivated without irrigation. On the other, a neighboring plot managed differently.Ernesto Soto – winegrower, Maule region
“…those are the same, it’s just that those aren’t worked, and that’s the difference you can see…
and that vineyard has a darker green than the one over there because the plant is very well adapted…”
The difference is striking. Ernesto’s vines display a deeper, more intense green than those of the neighboring irrigated plot. Even from a distance, their vigor and adaptation to the environment appear more pronounced.Beyond water itself, another factor is becoming central: the soil.
To better understand its role, we head north of Argentina, to Cafayate. On the terrace of Bodega Yacochuya, Santiago, an agronomist, emphasizes a fundamental point: water management begins beneath our feet.Santiago – agronomist, Bodega Yacochuya
“Mainly… focusing on soil life, on microbiology seeing how to promote it with compost, organic fertilizers, adding microbiology.
Minimizing, not using herbicides. All of this helps to gradually build a soil… a soil structure.
Avoiding tillage… That’s how we think about caring for the soil, knowing that this is what will store water.”For him, living soil is the key. By promoting microbiology, limiting chemical inputs, and avoiding disruption of the soil’s structure, its capacity to retain water is naturally improved.This approach notably involves the use of cover crops, allowing grasses to grow between the vine rows.
These plant covers play several roles. They protect the soil from the sun, retain moisture, stabilize the ground, and limit erosion.
In a region like Cafayate, where slopes are steep and rainfall is scarce but sometimes intense, this balance becomes crucial.Santiago – agronomist, Bodega Yacochuya
“Also, in Cafayate it rains very little… but when it does rain… we have more than an 8% slope…
A rainfall on bare soil, and the vineyard ends up down there.”Without plant cover, water runs off and carries everything in its path: soil, nutrients, sometimes even young vines. By contrast, a structured soil acts like a sponge, capable of absorbing and retaining water where the vine needs it.
But if these practices seem relevant, why are they not more widely adopted, particularly in Europe?
The answer lies as much in technical constraints as in cultural and regulatory habits.
And to better understand these differences, it is sometimes necessary to change perspective.Sofía Elena, a winegrower in Argentine Patagonia, has worked in several vineyards around the world, notably in France, and shares her experience of these different approaches.Sofía Elena – Bodega Contra Corriente
“What we tried to do as soon as I arrived was to maintain permanent plant cover. That’s better for retaining soil moisture. Even in hot climates, it helps keep moisture in the soil and prevents leaving it bare. And in climates like ours, where we have humidity, cold, and heat as well, it works in two ways. In summer, it retains moisture, and during wet periods, it helps water infiltrate.
For me, having permanent cover is a very good idea for keeping moisture in the soil. You may have slightly lower yields, that’s true, because there is more competition from grasses. But that’s not really… Sometimes we still use irrigation. If the plants need water, we provide it. It’s different when you don’t have the rights.
In France, it’s different. Because I’ve known estates in Burgundy that do not maintain permanent cover, because they lose a lot of yield. But they cannot irrigate.”She thus highlights that permanent plant cover helps retain soil moisture and promotes water infiltration, but it can also create competition with the vine. In Latin America, this constraint is mitigated by irrigation, whereas in France, where irrigation remains limited, producers must balance yield with water management.These issues are widely documented, notably in the book Vigne, vin et changement climatique, which emphasizes a key point: soil preparation even before planting. Some vineyards work the soil deeply to encourage deeper root systems, allowing the vine to access water further underground. However, this practice carries risks: it can disrupt soil structure, mix organic matter, and paradoxically reduce its capacity to retain water. Soil management therefore appears to be a particularly delicate balance.
Beyond the soil, adaptation also involves the plant itself. Two elements come into play: the grape variety, which determines the characteristics of the wine, such as Malbec, Chardonnay, or Pinot Noir, and the rootstock, often less well known, which forms the root system of the vine. The latter plays an essential role in resistance to climatic conditions, particularly drought, by influencing root depth, water uptake, and plant transpiration.Historically, the use of rootstocks became widespread in France in the 19th century following the phylloxera crisis, a destructive insect from America that devastated much of the European vineyard. Grafting onto resistant American rootstocks made it possible to save viticulture, paving the way for new research and applications that are now essential in the face of climate change.In the field, Perrina, an oenologist at the Matetic estate in the Casablanca Valley, explains that the choice of rootstock directly influences how the vine explores the soil. Some enable deeper rooting, capable of accessing water at depth, while others are less suited to dry conditions. The same reasoning applies to grape varieties, whose resilience varies according to their characteristics.Finally, adaptation does not stop at the soil or the plant: it also involves the way the vine is trained. The pruning system and vineyard layout directly influence grape exposure and water management. In Latin America, particularly in hot and arid areas, many producers favor the pergola system, where vines grow overhead, forming a dense canopy.
This is what Raymondo explains to us, whom we met at Finca Cosmos near Mendoza:
“And there’s a phrase that’s widely used in Argentina now. It says: the old ways work. I don’t know if that makes sense. The old things are the ones that work. And the pergola is an old method. And I believe it works very well in these times, right? Yes—
To avoid sun exposure and to help retain moisture.”
According to him, these traditional methods, such as the pergola, are particularly relevant today: they help protect the grapes from the sun and retain moisture. By contrast, in other regions such as southern Chile or certain Mediterranean areas, vines are trained as bush vines (gobelet), lower to the ground with reduced foliage, in order to limit water consumption.Two different approaches, therefore, illustrating the same reality: in the face of climate change, there is no single solution, but rather a diversity of adaptations closely linked to local conditions.Finally, adaptation to water scarcity does not stop in the vineyard but continues in the winery, where certain processes, such as cleaning tanks and barrels, are particularly water-intensive. In Mendoza, Gonzalo Tamagnini explains that he integrates this constraint from the winemaking stage, for example by favoring concrete tanks, which require less water than wooden barrels.From the soil to the winery, the solutions are therefore multiple, complementary, and sometimes even contradictory. One major lever remains relatively unexplored here: the choice of grape varieties, between international and native ones, a question that is now central on both sides of the Atlantic and that we will explore further in the next episode.
Summary of Episode 3:
Latin American grape varieties: between migration and climate adaptation
In the previous episode, we explored how winegrowers in Latin America are adapting to drought and water scarcity. But before talking about irrigation, altitude, or cultivation techniques, everything begins with a fundamental element: the grape.Behind every wine lies a grape variety, meaning a type of grape that directly influences the taste, structure, and identity of the wine. As with apples—Granny Smith, Gala, or Reinette—each variety tells a different story.In Argentina and Chile, the best-known names remain Malbec or Carménère. Yet the viticultural history of the continent is not limited to these international stars. Long before them, dozens of local varieties already existed, often little known in Europe: the criolla grapes.
These grapes, born from centuries of adaptation, tell another story of South American wine: that of Spanish colonization, migrations, natural crossbreeding, but also a possible future in the face of climate change.The word “criolla,” which could be translated as “creole,” comes from the Portuguese crioulo and means “born in the place.” It refers to grape varieties derived from European vines that arrived in the 16th century and were then locally transformed through natural mutations and successive crossings.The first varieties introduced included Listán Prieto, known as Criolla Chica in Argentina and País in Chile, as well as Muscat of Alexandria.These varieties arrived with Spanish colonization, and their establishment began in Peru as early as 1539.Why Peru?
For three main reasons.
- First, gold and silver. Tales of fabulous wealth attracted Spanish conquistadors, particularly Francisco Pizarro, Diego de Almagro, and Hernando de Luque.
- Second, the Inca Empire. Its vast road network, the Qhapaq Ñan, connected Quito to Santiago de Chile. Controlling this empire meant controlling much of the continent.
- Finally, the political context. In 1532, the empire was weakened by a civil war between Atahualpa and Huáscar. Pizarro took advantage of this instability, captured Atahualpa, and hastened the fall of the empire.With the Viceroyalty of Peru established in 1542, Lima became the Spanish administrative and economic center.Religion also played a central role. Colonization went hand in hand with evangelization: Catholic masses required wine. Imports were no longer enough. It had to be produced locally.
Thus, South American viticulture was born.
In Lima, we met Pedro Cuenca Espinoza, often considered the ambassador of Peruvian wine. Passionate and an immense expert in the viticultural history of his country, he explains to us how the vine spread southward.Pedro Cuenca Espinoza“These grapes continued their journey southward, toward Ica, toward the other regions of Arequipa, Moquegua, and Tacna.
They would also reach Apurímac and Cusco.
We are talking about the 16th century.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, all these areas would begin producing more and more grapes.”The regions of Arequipa, Moquegua, and Tacna then became major production centers. Even Cusco and Apurímac, in the heart of the Andes and close to Machu Picchu, saw the arrival of the vine.Imagining these landscapes shifting from Inca agriculture to vineyards illustrates the scale of the territory’s transformation.In 1545, the discovery of the Potosí mines in Bolivia created a huge commercial outlet. Mining populations, exploited under dramatic conditions, consumed the wine produced in Peru. Bolivia itself became a wine-producing region in the 17th century.Further south, Argentina and Chile followed.In Argentina, Juan Cedrón crossed the Andes on horseback with Muscat of Alexandria and Listán Prieto. These varieties would give birth to an entire family of criollas.In Chile, Francisco de Carabantes and Rodrigo de Araya introduced the vine around 1548. Gradually, households began planting their own vines, and the País grape became emblematic.But the following centuries marked a decline.Earthquakes, religious expulsions, independence movements, wars, abandonment of cultivation… and above all phylloxera and the rise of cotton farming profoundly disrupted viticulture.
Pedro Cuenca Espinoza sheds light on this turning point.Pedro Cuenca Espinoza“Another factor that also significantly affected grape and wine production was cotton cultivation.
England needed more raw materials. It was in the midst of the Industrial Revolution, producing textiles and clothing. In 1860, the United States experienced a civil war over the abolition of slavery between the North and the South. As a result, cotton production came to a halt. They were the main cotton producers. And England, what did it do? It bought cotton from Peru.”Cotton became more profitable than vines. The remaining grapes were mainly used for distilling pisco.
Today, many winemakers claim the heritage of criolla varieties as an integral part of their terroir.
In Chile, Roberto Henríquez, a passionate winemaker from the Biobío region, defends these grape varieties as a unique treasure.Roberto Henríquez“So Central European varieties, together with Arab varieties, basically from North Africa, arrive, and all that influence ultimately transforms into the culture of that region, the Jerez framework.
The wines of Jerez, the very famous grape varieties, such as what they call Listán, which is the Listán Blanco or Palomino Fino, as it is called in Jerez, and Listán Blanco in the Canary Islands.”For him, these multiple influences, European, Arab, North African, have created a wine culture that is unique in the world.
On his estate, he also develops his own nursery.Roberto Henríquez“And we are also establishing it in one of our vineyards here in Biobío, so we also use material that we find in Itata, plus our own material.
Everything that has local, ancient potential, we propagate. And everything new that appears as well. In the future, we should have a fairly high level of varietal diversity.”Since Chile has never experienced phylloxera, it can plant vines directly in the ground, without grafting. This makes it possible to preserve and multiply a vast genetic heritage.
In Argentina, Lucas Niven has become a leading figure for criolla varieties. His goal: to preserve true reservoir of genetic diversity.Lucas Niven“Here you will find our native criolla grapes and their descendants.
We have first-generation and second-generation varieties that are already native to us, such as Canela, this old vine we have here, which is a first-generation criolla. Its parents are Muscat Petit Grain and Listán Prieto, which is of Spanish, Iberian origin.”The “Canela,” for example, comes from the cross between Muscat Petit Grain and Listán Prieto.
Facing these vineyards, we can clearly understand what genetic diversity means: several continents, several centuries, and grape varieties now perfectly adapted to their local climate.With rising temperatures, vine cycles are changing. Budbreak occurs earlier, increasing the risk of spring frost. Grapes ripen faster, concentrate more sugar, and therefore produce wines with higher alcohol and lower acidity.In short: more heat often means heavier wines.This is where criolla varieties become fascinating.
Their phenological stages are varied: some have slower ripening cycles, which can compensate for the acceleration caused by warming temperatures.Their long local adaptation also often makes them more resistant to heat and water stress. Finally, historically, many of them were used to produce lighter, fresher, less structured wines, exactly what many consumers are looking for today.
In Argentina, criolla grapes are estimated to represent nearly 25% of the vineyard area.
And after tasting them, it is hard not to understand the enthusiasm: notes of white fruits, peach, apricot, flowers, fresh herbs… lively, bright wines, perfect for summer.From the 1840s–1850s onward, a second viticultural revolution began.New European grape varieties, especially French ones, arrived massively in Chile and Argentina.
Claude Gay, Sylvestre Ochagavía, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, Michel Aimé Pouget… all contributed to the introduction of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sémillon, and Carménère.But this history raises a sensitive question: what truly represents a country’s wine identity?We discussed this with Gonzalo Tamagnini, from Bodega Desquiciado.Gonzalo Tamagnini“For me, it does not represent Argentina, but rather it can represent the revolution of Latin American viticulture. Which would be Peru, Chile, Bolivia, and Argentina, the largest wine-producing countries in Latin America. That is why, for me, Listán Prieto or Criolla Chica represents colonization, and does not truly represent development.”For him, criolla grapes tell the story of colonization, not necessarily modern Argentine identity.He goes on:Gonzalo Tamagnini“Yes, and for me, immigration is more important than colonization.
We learned to make wine from Italians, French, and Spaniards.
That’s why I make Garnacha, Sangiovese, and Pinot Noir.
Because I believe education comes from evolution, not from colonization, right?”His vision is strong: Argentine wine identity would come more from European immigration than from Spanish colonization.Between colonial memory and migratory heritage, the debate remains open.In France, ancient grape varieties, forgotten or even banned, are gradually returning to discussions.
Some hybrids introduced from America in the 19th century were banned in the 1930s, officially because of their methanol content. But economic reasons also seem just as important: too productive, low-cost, they threatened market balance.Even today, some winemakers are campaigning for their reinstatement.
Other forgotten grape varieties such as Pineau d’Aunis, Romorantin, Sauvignon Rose, César, or Gouais Blanc are also regaining interest.
Like South American criollas, they tell another story of wine: one of diversity, adaptation, and living heritage.They are the living memory of five centuries of history: colonization, migrations, disasters, resistance, and rebirth.Above all, they show that the future of wine may well lie in what was once considered outdated.In the face of climate change, these forgotten grape varieties now appear as valuable resources: more resilient, better adapted, and carrying a strong identity.
Ultimately, understanding Latin American wine means understanding that behind every bottle lies much more than taste: a political, cultural, and climatic history.And in the next episode, we will continue this exploration with another fascinating topic: biodiversity.
Summary of Episode 4:
Vine and Biodiversity: rethinking balance
When we imagine a vineyard, we often think of perfectly aligned rows of vines stretching as far as the eye can see, on bare, carefully maintained land. In this collective imagination, biodiversity and viticulture seem almost opposed.
Throughout our journey in Latin America, we discovered that biodiversity has become a central issue for many winemakers, in order to preserve their land, their harvests, and the very future of their vineyards.Between native forests, hedgerows, beneficial insects, protective birds, small threatened deer, or destructive wasps, this episode shows how the vine cannot exist alone: it depends on a fragile balance with all living things around it.The word biodiversity is relatively recent. It emerged in the 1980s, before being formally established at the 1992 Rio Earth Summit with the Convention on Biological Diversity. But behind this now ubiquitous term, the definition remains simple: it refers to the set of living forms, natural environments, and above all the interactions between them.Biodiversity is based on three levels:
- the diversity of ecosystems (forests, grasslands, oceans, soils…)
- the diversity of species (plants, animals, insects, fungi, bacteria…)
- the genetic diversity within each speciesIn a vineyard, this obviously includes the vine, but also the soil, insects, birds, microorganisms, trees, flowers, hedgerows… and even grape varieties.Soils, for example, are not just supports: they are true ecosystems. Roots limit erosion, worms and microorganisms nourish the land, hedgerows allow birds to nest, and insects provide natural regulation. In other words: everything is connected.However, this balance is now under threat. Deforestation, urbanization, intensive agriculture, monocultures, and climate change are accelerating the disappearance of species. Scientists now speak of a possible sixth mass extinction. In European agricultural landscapes, bird populations have declined by 30% since 1989. In Latin America, ecological balances are also deeply disrupted.All of this leads to the disruption of certain interactions and results in the disappearance of some species or, conversely, the emergence of species considered invasive. For a long time, removing what was considered harmful was the solution, but this no longer always works.Biodiversity is also disrupted, and in addition, the establishment of vineyards in new territories brings changes to the landscape.On the island of Chiloé, in southern Chile, we met Denis Duveau, a French winemaker based in an almost untouched territory.Denis Duveau:“But what I didn’t know was that…Since I have neighbors who don’t use pesticides, no…
No insecticides. I didn’t know that nature was…And at harvest time, swarms arrived, billions of wasps that ate everything. Everything. The harvest was eaten by the wasps.
So I said to myself, we’re going to call it Clos des Guêpes.”His first harvests were completely devoured by wasps.Rather than declaring war on insects, Denis chose to understand, adapt, and even pay them tribute: his vineyard is now called Le Clos des Guêpes.
In northern Argentina, in Cafayate, we visited Bodega El Porvenir and met Ignacio, an agronomist.
On the Finca Alto Los Cuises plot, perched at 1,850 meters above sea level, the scenery is striking: jacarandas with purple flowers, algarrobos, red ceibos… a plant oasis in the middle of arid mountains.These trees are not decorative. For Ignacio, they directly contribute to the quality of the wine.Ignacio Figueroa“For me, the richness of places like this is strongly reflected in what has to do with polyphenols. Obviously, it would need to be scientifically verified, but I believe that certain compounds remain attached to the grape skin, and then when you ferment and produce the wine, all those compounds become volatile and are released, and you can perceive aromas that are distinctive.”According to him, biodiversity promotes the presence of polyphenols, compounds found in grape skins that contribute to the structure, aromas, and identity of the wine. The landscape therefore also influences taste.For José Luis Gómez, from the González Bastías vineyard in the Maule region of Chile, having different species of fruit trees allows birds to have a balanced diet and avoid gorging on grapes; in other words, balance is preserved.In Chile, in the Itata region, winemaker Leo Erazo pointed out something obvious that we had never really questioned.Leo Erazo:“We have to look at nature to find answers that we can apply to the ecosystem we create in production. The systems that don’t need fertilization, that are fertile, are the forest and the savanna.Because there are many animals…
The idea is to create a kind of ecosystem. To create an ecosystem, if you have 100% vines, it’s the same as 100% eucalyptus.”And he continues:“I don’t know, with the vine we find it more beautiful, I think. But if it’s 1,000 hectares of eucalyptus, it’s a mess. In the end, it’s the same. Because you’re creating just one…
It’s not an ecosystem, it’s a plantation.”If today a pine monoculture is seen as shocking, that is not the case in a vineyard. Yet it is the same thing: a monoculture remains a monoculture, regardless of the type of plant. This reflection also makes sense when looking at Chile’s recent history.In 1974, under Augusto Pinochet’s dictatorship, a decree massively encouraged the planting of pine and eucalyptus trees, subsidized by the state to develop the timber industry. Many vineyards were then destroyed. As a result, vast forest monocultures emerged, highly flammable.The major wildfires that regularly affect the Biobío and Itata regions are partly linked to these plantations. Eucalyptus, rich in oil, acts like a true powder keg.By contrast, native forests are more resilient: they retain moisture, protect soils, and host much richer biodiversity. In response, some winemakers are now trying to restore balance. For example, Roberto Henríquez and Leo Erazo are actively involved in planting native trees within their vineyards and in the surrounding region.Leo has chosen to replant more than ten species of native trees around his plots.Leo Erazo:“Yes, I decided this based on observing the forest itself. Because local or native trees are well adapted to the conditions here. We don’t need to do anything.”When we ask whether trees compete with the vine for water, he gives a very interesting answer:“No, I think they are at different levels. Even the vine, you know, the vine is a liana. It evolved to live in forests. So I think there is a kind of symbiosis between trees and vines.”According to him, there is no competition between trees and vines because their roots do not grow at the same depths, and the vine is a liana, so it is naturally adapted to growing in forests. These trees also provide food for the pudú, a small endangered deer that Leo hopes to reintroduce to the region. He has even bought several hectares around his vineyards to restore these spaces.The role of the winemaker thus goes far beyond wine production: it becomes that of a guardian of a territory.In addition to trees, the introduction of hedgerows also encourages insect development, such as ladybugs, which eat pests and aphids, thus avoiding the use of pesticides. These hedgerows are sometimes called “insect corridors.” Although the vine is self-pollinating and does not require pollinators to reproduce, insects such as bees, bumblebees, and butterflies are still beneficial to the vineyard. Moreover, more and more winemakers are integrating grasses and flower beds between the vines, among other things to preserve freshness. These small insects present in the hedgerows also promote pollination and the reproduction of these flowers.Some winegrowers also introduce animals. For example, we have seen several vineyards using horses or sheep to work and improve soil quality. They can, for instance, prevent excessive soil compaction compared to machinery, or act as natural lawnmowers for overly tall grasses in the vineyard. And of course, their droppings make excellent compost!While many insects, birds, and other animals have a positive impact on the vineyard, certain imbalances may require protection.
Let us now return to Denis to see the solution he implemented against wasps on the island of Chiloé, in southern Chile:“In 2023, I put up… nets. Like in Argentina, I installed hail nets. I told myself… I tried many nets that were too light, etc. So I invented this system. I invented everything because no one can help me in the region since there is no oïdium.
And at harvest time, we now lower the… nets that protect me from wasps and also from birds. Because there are so many birds.”Like many winemakers, he uses nets to prevent overly greedy birds from eating his harvest. And these nets also protect against wasps.Other insects can also pose a threat to the vineyard. In Mendoza, ants can devastate young vines. At Domaine Bousquet, Irma explains the solutions they have tested.Irma Remigio“We have tried diatomaceous earth, we have tried Beauveria bassiana, which is a fungus that makes them sick. Everything is approved for organic farming. The truth is that in the dry climate here, the bait with Beauveria… is useless. I’m not going to lie to you. It’s very sandy here…”Diatomaceous earth and the fungus Beauveria bassiana do not work well in the overly dry soils of Mendoza.Another approach is also being explored.Irma Remigio“Now we are conducting research with scientists from CONICET to see what types of spiders we have. Which spiders, for example, consume ants.”The idea is to identify natural predators, especially certain spiders. Using living organisms to regulate other living organisms.
Another example: some small moths that are harmful to vines can be controlled without pesticides.Irma Remigio“There is a wasp that injects its eggs into the moth larva, and it directly kills it.”Some wasps lay their eggs directly inside the larvae of pest moths, eliminating them naturally.Another surprising method is sexual confusion.Irma Remigio“Grape growers who are strictly organic…one method is pheromones that create sexual confusion.”The principle consists of releasing synthetic female pheromones to disorient males, prevent mating, and therefore limit population growth. A method used in many organic vineyards. What we understood throughout all these encounters is that biodiversity first requires time.
Observe. Understand. Wait.
Denis Duveau summed it up perfectly when he showed us the birds in his vineyard on Chiloé Island, in southern Chile.Denis Duveau“Have you seen the bandurrias? No, the bandurrias, the ibises. With a big beak. In my tree over there, there’s a baby that was just born. They’re all in a state of excitement. We have a lot of ibises. It’s the emblematic bird here. You always see them in groups of three. There’s the father, the mother, the son, and the daughter.”In Latin America, this relationship also connects to a deeper worldview: that of the Pachamama, Mother Earth. Originating from the Andean cosmovisions of the Quechua and Aymara peoples, this philosophy is based on three principles:Everything is alive and interconnected: the earth, called Pachamama, the mountains, rivers, and animals are all considered beings with which humans maintain a relationship. A relationship of reciprocity (known as ayni) exists: humans must give as much as they receive, by respecting and thanking nature through offerings and rituals.
Finally, the goal is to live in balance and harmony with nature, rather than to dominate it.This worldview still inspires certain agricultural practices today, rituals of gratitude, and even laws: in Bolivia, the rights of Mother Earth have been incorporated into legislation. A radically different way of thinking about our relationship with the land.
Ultimately, preserving biodiversity and the environment is now essential to ensure the survival of vineyards. It must allow winegrowers to continue producing under sustainable conditions, as the vine is a long-term crop, and to ensure the survival of winegrowers both in Latin America and in France.However, the economic context of the wine sector is currently subject to fluctuations and many other challenges.The economic survival of the sector is under pressure, and different strategies are being adopted. We invite you to listen or read to the next episode to understand all of this in detail!
Summary of Episode 5:
The wine economy: reinventing itself in the face of climate and market pressures
Adapting wine production to respond to climate change is essential. But it is also necessary to be able to sell wine and find consumers. In this episode, we sought to understand how the wine sector is economically adapting to new market expectations, shifting tastes, and climate constraints.Between declining global consumption, inflation, international competition, regulations, organic or biodynamic certifications, and new consumption habits, the wine world is undergoing a profound transformation. In addition, this transformation differs significantly between Europe and Latin America.
According to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine, global wine consumption in 2024 fell to its lowest level since 1961. Since 2018, it has decreased by around 10%.This decline is first explained by a structural shift in consumption habits. Younger generations drink less alcohol and consume it differently. Wine is no longer a daily or family-meal product: it is now more associated with occasional or festive moments.
Even in France, where wine culture remains very strong, consumption has been declining for several years. The reasons are multiple.First, health concerns play an increasingly important role, and alcohol prevention campaigns have deeply shaped behaviours.Second, wine now faces competition from other beverages such as beer, cocktails, or alcohol-free drinks.Climate change also influences consumer preferences. Powerful, oaky, or high-alcohol red wines are less attractive than before. Many consumers now seek fresher, lighter, and easier-to-drink wines.To these structural changes are added economic factors. Since the Covid-19 period, production costs have risen sharply: energy, transport, bottle glass, and raw materials. As a result, the price of wine has increased for the end consumer, while inflation reduces purchasing power. Wine, considered a non-essential product, is among the first expenses to be cut.The United States, the world’s largest consumer, and China have both seen a sharp decline in demand. In Europe as well, consumption continues to fall.
Wine production is also declining significantly. In France, production fell by 17% between 2019 and 2023.Some winegrowers are abandoning their activity, and the state sometimes subsidises vine uprooting. In the United States, extreme droughts have also caused a major drop in production. However, behind these global trends, economic realities differ greatly from country to country.In Latin America, vineyards are often much larger than in France. It is not uncommon to find estates of several hundred hectares in Chile, whereas in France family farms of 10 to 20 hectares remain common. These large surfaces imply a different organisation: vineyards often operate like businesses, with heavy investments in machinery, irrigation, and infrastructure.Chile particularly illustrates this logic. As domestic consumption is much lower than its production, producers must export. This dependence on exports forces estates to remain highly competitive.Large-scale operations benefit from economies of scale: investment costs are spread over very large outputs, which reduces unit costs and strengthens bargaining power. However, this competitiveness also makes the transition towards more sustainable practices more difficult, especially for small producers.
In the Maule region of Chile, we met Miguel Alvear, a winegrower, who explained very concretely the economic difficulties linked to reducing the use of chemical products.Miguel Alvear
“the chemicals arrived here, if I do 6 days with chemicals I do it in 2 hours, and I burn the grass, the speed and the economy, for example here I pay workers, it costs me much more than, for example, I buy the chemical and I do it myself, as I say I do it in 2 hours here, the economy is very significant”Miguel explains that working the land manually takes him six days of work, compared to only two hours when using chemical products. In a country where the price of grapes is very low, the economic difference becomes decisive.Miguel Alvear
“the idea is that if, for example, this plant costs let’s say 100 pesos, it gives me 2 kilos of grapes, they pay me 30 pesos per kilo, so 2 kilos are 60 pesos, and the cost of the plant is 100, I cannot work it, it’s an example, and that’s what happens here, many people leave it or prune it and apply chemicals, so what happens with pruning and chemicals is that the cost is 20 pesos and they sell it for 30, I make 10”With this example, Miguel shows that by working without chemical products, his costs become higher than his revenues. To produce untreated grapes, therefore, you need buyers willing to pay more to compensate for this additional work. Miguel manages to do so for part of his harvest thanks to partnerships with natural wine producers, notably French winemaker Louis-Antoine Luyt, who fairly remunerates his work to produce natural wine that he distributes in France.In Argentina, producers face a different reality. The country experiences strong economic instability, with high inflation, a currency that is regularly devalued, and frequently changing economic policies. For wine producers, this greatly complicates investment and cost management. The Argentine wine sector is therefore less competitive in export markets than Chile’s.On top of this, there are significant natural constraints: a very arid climate, indispensable irrigation, and high production costs. Argentina is therefore shifting towards premium wines: producing less, but producing better and selling at higher prices. Finally, wine takes time. Between planting, harvesting, ageing, and selling, several years can pass. In a country where prices fluctuate constantly, it becomes difficult to build a stable long-term strategy.Marcos Etchart
“In Argentina we always say that an Argentine entrepreneur who goes to Europe and sets up a company in Europe could perfectly well become Minister of Economy in France or Spain.”
With humor, Marcos Etchart from the Yacochuya winery in Argentina explains that Argentine entrepreneurs have become experts at navigating permanent economic crises and could easily become Ministers of Economy in Europe.We also met small producers in Chile and Argentina who see their size as an advantage. Their smaller production is easier to sell, especially when the wine is of high quality.The wine economy is also closely linked to regulation. In France, Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée have, since the 1930s, defined production areas, authorised grape varieties, and production methods. These rules were introduced to fight fraud and protect terroirs.In Latin America, appellation systems also exist, but they are generally more flexible and less restrictive. In Argentina, Geographical Indications mainly guarantee the origin of the grapes and their bottling. Some Denominations of Origin also exist, but they are rarely used because they impose stricter constraints.French regulations therefore appear more stringent. For example, it is impossible to freely plant any grape variety in France. Appellations impose precise lists of authorised varieties, and some foreign grapes remain prohibited in the country.
This constraint does not exist in Latin America, where producers have greater freedom to experiment.The administrative question also frequently comes up in discussions with winegrowers. In Latin America, many have told us they face relatively few administrative procedures, unlike some French producers who denounce a very heavy bureaucratic burden. For some Chilean producers, this flexibility enables greater capacity for innovation in the face of climate change.
In their ecological transition, many estates are now seeking organic or biological certifications. These certifications prohibit the use of synthetic chemicals in vineyards. Only certain treatments, such as sulfur or copper, remain permitted against vine diseases.
However, these standards also create contradictions. Copper, for example, remains a heavy metal that accumulates in soils.
In the Mendoza region, Lucas Niven also showed us another paradox.Lucas Niven
“The issue of plastic, for example. Let me show you something. In the winery we are using a lot of this to avoid using this. These are small things we are implementing. But avoiding the use of this is why it’s great. And here I’ll tell you something. Organic certification does not allow you to have wine like this. It forces you to use this.”Lucas Niven seeks to reduce the use of plastic by using reusable metal structures to store his bottles. Yet organic certification still requires certain plastic packaging elements.Among the various environmental approaches we encountered during our journey, biodynamics is probably the most debated. This farming practice, inspired by the work of Rudolf Steiner in the early 20th century, aims to reconnect agriculture with natural cycles and celestial rhythms.At Finca Cosmos in Argentina, Raimundo explains the origins of this philosophy.Raimundo Laugero
“So Steiner has a vision, and he believes that from that moment on, agriculture would increasingly rely on chemicals and become less natural.”
“They were going to lose their connection with the sky, and therefore people would also lose that connection because they would start consuming foods resulting from chemical processes, and they would lose their connection with spirituality, right? So what did biodynamics come to offer? It comes to reconnect, right?”
Raimundo here refers to Rudolf Steiner, the founder of biodynamics. In the aftermath of the First World War, Steiner saw agriculture becoming increasingly dependent on chemical inputs. Biodynamics was therefore conceived as a way to return to a more natural form of farming, reconnecting agriculture to both the earth and the sky.Raimundo Laugero
“In these agricultural organisms, on these farms, the sky is connected with the earth so that the food produced has that vital force that allows you, well, vitality but above all free thinking, right?”For Raimundo, the sky and celestial bodies play an essential role in the vitality of plants. This highly spiritual vision leads some winegrowers to work according to the lunar calendar or to observe natural cycles very carefully.In France, however, this method is debated. First, because Rudolf Steiner was not a scientist but a philosopher and the founder of Anthroposophy, a spiritual movement that seeks to connect science, philosophy, and spirituality. Some biodynamic practices also raise questions: the use of medicinal plants, natural preparations, or the famous cow horns filled with fermented manure.Nevertheless, several producers we met during the journey claim to have observed concrete results in their vineyards.This is the case of Irma, from Bodega Bousquet in Argentina.Irma Remigio
“Se dio a conocer la práctica y fui entendiendo que había formas más sanas aún que ser orgánicos. Entonces ahí fue la evolución interna como empresa también. La evolución interna mía como persona. He trabajado en otra bodega que estaba en proceso también de biodinamia.”Irma explains that when she discovered biodynamics, she felt that there were even healthier ways to produce wine than conventional organic farming. This transition was both that of her estate and a personal evolution.Irma Remigio
“And as an engineer I was always very rigid, very agnostic. So I couldn’t see how those practices could make any sense. And I really started to see their value when I began to observe the differences between vineyards that were managed with organic practices and others that were managed with regenerative practices. In the same terroir, with the same vines, it was impressive.”As an engineer, Irma described herself as very rational and sceptical. But she explains that she changed her mind after directly observing the differences between plots managed under organic farming and others under regenerative practices. According to her, the results were striking, even though the vines were on the same terroir.What is certain is that biodynamics requires a great deal of attention and work in the vineyard. Human intervention is minimal, which often encourages biodiversity and soil life. But this philosophy requires a long-term commitment and practices that can sometimes be complex to implement.Another challenge is the cost of certification. Thanks to Raimundo, we discovered that a participatory biodynamic certification exists in Argentina. In five countries, Argentina, Chile, Brazil, South Africa, and India, the Demeter foundation allows collective certification, based on learning and knowledge-sharing between producers rather than oversight by a private certification body.The producers involved must follow the same rules as conventional certification, but they progress together through several years of training and exchange. However, this participatory certification remains limited to the domestic market and cannot be used for exports. Other winegrowers go even further by producing natural wine.
In this approach, no sulphites, or only minimal amounts, are added to stabilise the wine. Sulphites, derived from sulphur, are normally used to stop fermentation and ensure the wine’s stability.Reducing their use helps preserve older winemaking methods and maintain a less modified taste. Some consumers also see it as a way to avoid headaches or certain allergic reactions.Unlike organic or biodynamic wine, natural wine currently has no official certification. Everything therefore relies mainly on trust between producer and consumer.
This relationship of trust comes up often in discussions with the winemakers we met during the trip. Many work using organic or biodynamic practices without necessarily seeking a label. Between organic, Demeter, and the many existing certifications, many believe that consumers now struggle to make sense of them.Beyond viticulture itself, some producers are seeking to completely rethink their way of producing in order to reduce their environmental impact.Once again, Raimundo impressed us with his holistic approach to circularity. At Finca Cosmos, nothing is wasted. Vine leaves and grape pomace are used to produce natural cosmetics. A portion of the dried leaves is even sold to a major Swiss brand. The wax produced by his beehives is used to seal his bottles. He also produced orange wine almost by chance, by leaving the grapes to macerate with their skins in order to avoid any loss of raw material.Even large estates are now considering their carbon footprint. At Bodega Bousquet in Argentina, a large share of the wine is exported abroad. To reduce transport-related emissions, the estate has reduced the weight of its glass bottles, now 408 grams compared to an average of around 550 grams.
The estate is also considering transporting its wine by sailboat from Valparaíso, Chile.
In Chile, Jose Ignacio from Maturana Wines has made another choice: buying second-hand equipment and tanks. In a context where many estates are closing and reselling their equipment, this approach allows him to reuse existing machinery rather than producing new ones.Some producers are also developing social projects. In the Maule region, Roberto Henriquez created an association to train young people in winemaking and help them start their own activity. In Chile as well, large estates such as Viña San Pedro work with Mapuche communities in the vineyards.Beyond producers’ environmental convictions, consumers themselves are becoming more attentive to product origins and climate issues.
Wine estates are therefore also adapting their ranges. Bodega Amalaya in Argentina, for example, produces a white wine at only 9% alcohol to respond to increasingly hot summers and demand for lighter wines. Maturana Wines is also developing alcohol-free products to attract younger generations.
In Bolivia, some producers are directly influencing local consumption habits. In Tarija, in the south of the country, we met Franz Kolhberg, director of the largest Bolivian winery.
Franz Kolhberg“Thanks to God, over time we have been reducing that sugar level, and Bolivians have started to get used to less sweet wine. So now the good thing is that they have begun to accept wines from abroad. Before, they wouldn’t drink anything that wasn’t Bolivian or that didn’t have sugar. Now they accept much drier wines, they understand a bit more about wine culture, and that really helps us communicate it.”He explains that Bolivian consumers, historically accustomed to very sweet red wines, are gradually turning towards drier wines. The estate is also developing white wines made from the Muscat of Alexandria grape variety, in a market where red wine has so far largely dominated consumption. This evolution shows that wine producers do not always simply follow consumers’ tastes: they can also help shape and change them.
Across all these encounters, one idea keeps coming back: the wine world is undergoing a profound transformation. Climate change, shifting consumer expectations, and economic constraints are forcing producers to reinvent themselves. Some rely on ancestral practices, others on innovation or new economic models. But all are trying to answer the same question: how can we continue producing wine in a world that is changing so rapidly?Sometimes, the answers emerge in regions considered extreme, in forgotten or still little-known territories. That is exactly what we will explore in the next episode.
Summary of Episode 6:
The new frontiers of wine: when climate redraws Latin America’s wine map
As global warming accelerates, the world’s wine map is undergoing a profound transformation. While some historic wine regions are seeing their delicate balance threatened by rising temperatures, new territories are emerging, and others are reclaiming long-forgotten winemaking traditions. From Argentine Patagonia to the Andean valleys of Chile and the ancestral vineyards of Bolivia, a new wine geography is taking shape, blending climate adaptation, innovation, and the rediscovery of heritage.At the southernmost tip of Argentina, Patagonia is best known for its vast open landscapes, glaciers, and snow-capped mountains. Yet behind these spectacular vistas lies a rapidly growing wine industry.The history of winemaking in Patagonia began in the late nineteenth century in the Río Negro province. Since the 1990s, however, winegrowers have continued moving farther south into Chubut Province, home to some of the southernmost vineyards in the world today.In this region, shaped by nineteenth-century Welsh immigration, new producers are seeking what more northerly regions increasingly struggle to provide: freshness.These estates are sometimes referred to as “nomadic vineyards.” Behind the term lies a very real phenomenon: producers are gradually relocating their operations to cooler areas in order to preserve the balance and character of their wines.One such producer is Sofia Elena, who works at the Contra Corriente vineyard in Trevelin. Passionate about cool-climate terroirs, she crafts wines whose slow ripening enhances acidity and aromatic finesse.Yet growing vines this far south brings new challenges. Spring frosts are a constant threat. To protect their grapes, some growers use a remarkable technique: continuous water spraying during frost events.
The water freezes around the grape clusters, forming a protective layer of ice. The process relies on a simple physical principle: when water freezes, it releases heat, helping to keep the immediate environment around 0°C (32°F).
Sofia Elena also explained that she has observed other frost-protection methods in vineyards around the worldSofia Elena :« There are other vineyards around the world that use this technique. Where does this technique come from?
I saw it in Canada, in a few vineyards. I think it’s mainly used in places with a lot of water. I haven’t seen it in France. I saw it in the Loire Valley. They use air turbines. I looked into several turbine models. We could use them, but we don’t have the Argentine import infrastructure to bring them in. Importing anything is very expensive »On the other side of the Andes, on the Chilean island of Chiloé, Denis Duveau faces similar challenges. Here, the nets used to protect the vines from birds and insects also help shield them from the cold.In these southern regions, the preferred grape varieties are often the same: Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer. Their slower growing cycle helps preserve freshness and aromatic expression. The result is a range of elegant, light, and vibrant wines, markedly different from the more powerful styles produced in the arid regions further north.More than 2,000 kilometers to the north, in Chile’s Elqui Valley, the landscape changes dramatically. Here, mountains dominate a semi-desert environment where vineyards have traditionally coexisted with pisco production. For a long time, wine nearly disappeared from the region. After the expulsion of the Jesuits by the Spanish Crown in 1767, much of the local winemaking knowledge was lost. Grapes then found a more practical outlet through distillation.Yet over the past few decades, several producers have been reviving these remarkable terroirs. Among the pioneers of this renaissance is Bodega Alcohuaz. Its vineyards are planted between 1,650 and 2,200 meters above sea level—exceptional elevations by global viticultural standards.
From a viewpoint overlooking the valley, Rosario explains the unique characteristics of this terroirRosario :«And here in particular there is the issue of radiation and sunlight, which means you have a high level of polyphenols, an extra amount of phenolic compounds, anthocyanins, and tannins. So everything becomes very expressive; the wines show a lot of intensity and character. And the berries tend to have slightly thicker skins than usual, as a way to defend themselves against this arid climate we have here, because we are in a kind of mountainous semi-desert. The climate here is quite unusual. »At these elevations, the atmosphere provides less protection from ultraviolet radiation. In response, the vines naturally develop thicker skins and produce higher concentrations of phenolic compounds. As a result, the wines gain greater color intensity, structure, and aging potential.Another major advantage is the significant temperature variation between day and night. Sunny days encourage photosynthesis and the accumulation of sugars, while cool nights preserve acidity and slow down the ripening process. This phenomenon contributes to the development of particularly complex aromas.Across the border, in the Argentine region of Cafayate, conditions are quite similar. The red desert landscapes, rich in oxidized iron, are home to Torrontés, one of Argentina’s emblematic grape varieties. A cross between Listán Prieto and Muscat of Alexandria, Torrontés produces highly aromatic white wines with floral and exotic fruit notes that are especially well suited to high-altitude terroirs.One of the greatest surprises of the journey was Bolivia, a country that remains largely overlooked on the international wine scene. Yet its winemaking history dates back to the sixteenth century. The first vines were planted as early as the 1550s at elevations exceeding 3,000 meters above sea level, an extraordinary altitude that highlights the uniqueness of Bolivia’s vineyards.The development of viticulture in Bolivia is closely linked to the discovery of the Potosí mine in 1545. At the time, this “mountain of silver” became one of the most important economic centers of the Spanish Empire. Rapid population growth and the wealth generated by mining created a strong demand for wine, allowing regions such as the Cinti Valley to prosper.
Even today, the valley preserves unique viticultural traditions. One of the most remarkable involves training vines directly on trees.
Marcelo, from Viña San Francisco de Horca, explains the origins of this practice:Marcelo :
« And of course, the most common plants are the native species from the area: molle, algarrobo, and in slightly more southern and therefore more humid areas, there is a lot of chañar.
These three native plants initially became the support structures for the vines. I imagine that at that time, when people arrived in the area, it was a place where there was nothing except these plants. So they started using the plants to grow the vines, because there wasn’t yet the idea of trellises or anything like that.
So they began planting the vines at the base of the trees so that the trees would serve as natural supports. »Lacking the necessary materials and infrastructure, the first winegrowers used local trees as natural supports for their vines. Species such as the molle, chañar, and algarrobo thus became living trellises. This technique, reminiscent of certain practices from Ancient Rome, offers several advantages: improved airflow around the grape clusters, protection against frost, and the creation of a favorable microclimate.The Cinti Valley is also distinguished by the presence of rare grape varieties, particularly Vischoqueña, a local cultivar that produces light, fresh red wines with spicy characteristics.The winemaking methods themselves are also evidence of a preserved heritage. Marcelo uses traditional demijohns as well as large ceramic jars made from rocks sourced in the local mountains. He also produces an orange wine using a traditional method passed down from his father/Marcelo :« So white wines were always fermented with the skins. No one was separating them. My father even tells me that there were wineries that fermented them with the stems as well, the whole bunch, everything together. No one was yet taking the time to separate anything, because the processes were not as refined or advanced. Everything was very basic at the time. »Long before orange wines became a global trend, they were already being produced in this valley using ancestral winemaking techniques.
Further south, the region of Tarija tells a different story. Viticulture arrived there much later. In the 1960s, a German family decided to plant vines in the area.Franz Kohlberg, a descendant of the estate’s founders, recounts this unexpected origin story.Franz Kholberg:« I don’t think my grandfather chose this place; the place chose him. It all started over a lunch, when my grandfather had a friend who owned this property, and there was this old hacienda house. He decided he wanted to sell it.
My grandfather was very close to the Franciscan fathers, and they used to provide him with the wine his father needed because he had a heart condition and had to drink a glass of wine every day. He started here with just a few plantings of grapes to make his own wine, and from there it gradually grew. »Unlike the Cinti Valley, the vineyards of Tarija are primarily planted with international grape varieties and rely on modern viticultural practices. The climate is milder but also more humid. Summer rainfall encourages the development of diseases such as downy mildew and botrytis, sometimes forcing growers to use more conventional treatments.Today, Tarija is regarded as the heart of Bolivia’s wine industry and has played a major role in raising the profile of the country’s wines on the international stage.
From the southern vineyards of Patagonia to the high Andean plateaus, and through the historic valleys of Bolivia, one conclusion stands out: the vine is a remarkable indicator of the environmental changes currently reshaping our world.Climate adaptation, water management, grape variety selection, and biodiversity conservation have become central concerns for winegrowers. Yet this evolution is about more than simply responding to climatic challenges. It is also creating opportunities to rediscover forgotten regions, promote local grape varieties, and revive traditions that are sometimes centuries old.Through these new frontiers of wine, Latin America is emerging today as a true laboratory for the viticulture of tomorrow.